Part 2 - Srinagar to Kargil and then to Leh

Beep beep the alarm sounded off early in the morning, we had already packed our stuff the night before - we checked out from the HB and were in the ferry shikara. Off we go to the ghat, where the cab is waiting for us. Our driver, Tariq was an ex-delhite and was showing us places all along. I took the shotgun seat of the scorpio to enjoy the views and traditionally I was better accustomed to motion-sickness. The rest were hogging the back/middle seat with Evi bang in the middle doing a balancing act all along to strengthen her calf muscles.

The drive from Dal lake to Ganderbal, over there the shops were closed, lots of security forces and some commotion. We passed the place and Mich was really unwell, so we stopped for some light eats. A xylo was already at that dhaba, the driver mentioned that he passed the place 20 odd minutes before us and was caught in some stone pelting and we are lucky we did not face any. Phew! close

Mich was so unwell that the local dhaba guys told us about a local doctor close by, and that she should consult him. We decided to go ahead and consult him, the doc was decent and qualified, gave her some meds and she had them.

The drive till Sonmarg was also uneventful, after looking at the valley's greatness for a while, were were greeted with a sudden amass of civilization and millions (read thousands) of khacchars (mules). I got out, clicked a couple of pictures and without wasting any time, proceeded towards Zoji la.

Traffic jam before Sonmarg



Sonmarg Glacier



It was nice a sunny, but as we approached the pass, the clouds started gathering and it started raining, the clouds over the pass were looking really bad, pitch dark and maybe it was raining over the pass.

There was no traffic, just that the pass was extremely steep. One moment we see a road on the valley, next we are climbing and we are just ascending with a massive gradient. Zozi la's ascent is simply like .. opps there is a big rock wall, lets climb it and see what is on the other side. While climbing up, the chill factor increased, the slopes were snow covered.

The branch route from Sonmarg to Baltal (towards the Amarnat caves)



We climbed and crossed the 'India gate' there was little presence of Amry/armed forces here - the entire base/helipad was snow covered. This was out 1st pass of the trip.





Zoji la, snowed out .. minutes after the hail storm started





There were massive wall of cut snow greeting us. The road was not a good condition but still much better than what it was going to be once the snow melts. The apex of the pass was fabricated with fly ash bricks to strengthen the road surface, but this was only for a few meters.



Post Zozi la, we were mesmerized by the amazing views of the valley, it was out of this word. there was a sudden change of vegetation. From lush green valley trees, there was arid vegetation on the other side of the pass.





It was around 1230 and we approached Drass, the second coldest inhabited place in the world. For snacks, we had the local kulcha (or roti) there along with tea. It was delicious! Farook Abdullah's motorcade overtook us here.

Next stop was the Drass war memorial, where the saga of the Indian Armed Forces was profiled for the Kargil operations. They have done a lot for us somethings which can not be described in words at all!









Tololing Peak



Tiger Hill



We spent a good half an hour or more here, wanted to spend more time here but we had to head out immediately to Kargil for our night stop over. We needed rest, food, and water. Phones were not working here at all (unless you had a BSNL).

The road had a lot of sign posts whcih read "Beware, you are being monitored by the enemy" people stop right next to these and get their pictures clicked, in 1999, a few seconds were enough for them to be shot. Vehicles were allowed in the night only and that also with no headlights at all.

Reached Kargil @ 1500 and took some rest, more police, the Abdullahs were visiting this place and we just relaxed at the hotel, had food and took some rest. Next morning, we started much earlier 0730 we were outside the hotel ready to roll out. I started speaking to the hotel guys, told them that I had heard that some Tata Nano driver was doing this route, they showed me a sticker! the Tata Nano expedition guys stayed at this very hotel! small world eh!

Quick shot of the Kargil town from the other side of the Suru river



After a tank up, we were heading towards the picturesque Namika la, via Mulbekh. The scenery was amazing yet again! the trees were different and so were the mountains. We were seeing some natural colours now. With no pollution everything looks so different.

Moon rocks after Kargil







It was raining in Mulbekh





Namik la approach



Its raining on this pass as well!



Beyond Namik la



At Fotu la, with the hail storm, snow flakes and rain ... all three at the same time!



Lamayuru village road and the landscape beyond Fotu la



Lamayuru village landscape



Clouds out..



Clouds in..



Just outside the Khaltsi village



Along the Indus, approaching Leh











Near Alchi bridge



Quick stop at the Indus Zangskar sangam at the Nimu village. I had been at this very location 11 years ago, the place seems to have changed a bit with a lot of tourists coming over now and lot of garbage around here. After this, we made a stop at the Gurudwara Patthar Sahib, which also next to the Magnetic Hill. We did not have a rubber ball to test the authenticity of the hill's magnetic pull :P





Basgo Gompa complex



Finally, we reached our destination. Our man did not know where the GH is, I knew its next to the Shanti Stupa area. 11 years on, will I still know where to go? I just saw a few markers, with pure instinct, we were there at the location! bingo! 11 years on I still remember the roads! the place :)

We just got in the GH and the helper said, no rooms available!

--TO be contd.--