Suspended Timeout

Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Part 2 - Srinagar to Kargil and then to Leh


Beep beep the alarm sounded off early in the morning, we had already packed our stuff the night before - we checked out from the HB and were in the ferry shikara. Off we go to the ghat, where the cab is waiting for us. Our driver, Tariq was an ex-delhite and was showing us places all along. I took the shotgun seat of the scorpio to enjoy the views and traditionally I was better accustomed to motion-sickness. The rest were hogging the back/middle seat with Evi bang in the middle doing a balancing act all along to strengthen her calf muscles.

The drive from Dal lake to Ganderbal, over there the shops were closed, lots of security forces and some commotion. We passed the place and Mich was really unwell, so we stopped for some light eats. A xylo was already at that dhaba, the driver mentioned that he passed the place 20 odd minutes before us and was caught in some stone pelting and we are lucky we did not face any. Phew! close

Mich was so unwell that the local dhaba guys told us about a local doctor close by, and that she should consult him. We decided to go ahead and consult him, the doc was decent and qualified, gave her some meds and she had them.

The drive till Sonmarg was also uneventful, after looking at the valley's greatness for a while, were were greeted with a sudden amass of civilization and millions (read thousands) of khacchars (mules). I got out, clicked a couple of pictures and without wasting any time, proceeded towards Zoji la.

Traffic jam before Sonmarg



Sonmarg Glacier



It was nice a sunny, but as we approached the pass, the clouds started gathering and it started raining, the clouds over the pass were looking really bad, pitch dark and maybe it was raining over the pass.

There was no traffic, just that the pass was extremely steep. One moment we see a road on the valley, next we are climbing and we are just ascending with a massive gradient. Zozi la's ascent is simply like .. opps there is a big rock wall, lets climb it and see what is on the other side. While climbing up, the chill factor increased, the slopes were snow covered.

The branch route from Sonmarg to Baltal (towards the Amarnat caves)



We climbed and crossed the 'India gate' there was little presence of Amry/armed forces here - the entire base/helipad was snow covered. This was out 1st pass of the trip.





Zoji la, snowed out .. minutes after the hail storm started





There were massive wall of cut snow greeting us. The road was not a good condition but still much better than what it was going to be once the snow melts. The apex of the pass was fabricated with fly ash bricks to strengthen the road surface, but this was only for a few meters.



Post Zozi la, we were mesmerized by the amazing views of the valley, it was out of this word. there was a sudden change of vegetation. From lush green valley trees, there was arid vegetation on the other side of the pass.





It was around 1230 and we approached Drass, the second coldest inhabited place in the world. For snacks, we had the local kulcha (or roti) there along with tea. It was delicious! Farook Abdullah's motorcade overtook us here.

Next stop was the Drass war memorial, where the saga of the Indian Armed Forces was profiled for the Kargil operations. They have done a lot for us somethings which can not be described in words at all!









Tololing Peak



Tiger Hill



We spent a good half an hour or more here, wanted to spend more time here but we had to head out immediately to Kargil for our night stop over. We needed rest, food, and water. Phones were not working here at all (unless you had a BSNL).

The road had a lot of sign posts whcih read "Beware, you are being monitored by the enemy" people stop right next to these and get their pictures clicked, in 1999, a few seconds were enough for them to be shot. Vehicles were allowed in the night only and that also with no headlights at all.

Reached Kargil @ 1500 and took some rest, more police, the Abdullahs were visiting this place and we just relaxed at the hotel, had food and took some rest. Next morning, we started much earlier 0730 we were outside the hotel ready to roll out. I started speaking to the hotel guys, told them that I had heard that some Tata Nano driver was doing this route, they showed me a sticker! the Tata Nano expedition guys stayed at this very hotel! small world eh!

Quick shot of the Kargil town from the other side of the Suru river



After a tank up, we were heading towards the picturesque Namika la, via Mulbekh. The scenery was amazing yet again! the trees were different and so were the mountains. We were seeing some natural colours now. With no pollution everything looks so different.

Moon rocks after Kargil







It was raining in Mulbekh





Namik la approach



Its raining on this pass as well!



Beyond Namik la



At Fotu la, with the hail storm, snow flakes and rain ... all three at the same time!



Lamayuru village road and the landscape beyond Fotu la



Lamayuru village landscape



Clouds out..



Clouds in..



Just outside the Khaltsi village



Along the Indus, approaching Leh











Near Alchi bridge



Quick stop at the Indus Zangskar sangam at the Nimu village. I had been at this very location 11 years ago, the place seems to have changed a bit with a lot of tourists coming over now and lot of garbage around here. After this, we made a stop at the Gurudwara Patthar Sahib, which also next to the Magnetic Hill. We did not have a rubber ball to test the authenticity of the hill's magnetic pull :P





Basgo Gompa complex



Finally, we reached our destination. Our man did not know where the GH is, I knew its next to the Shanti Stupa area. 11 years on, will I still know where to go? I just saw a few markers, with pure instinct, we were there at the location! bingo! 11 years on I still remember the roads! the place :)

We just got in the GH and the helper said, no rooms available!

--TO be contd.--

Tuesday, June 29, 2010

Part 1 - Delhi to Srinagar, stay in Srinagar

After we made the decision to travel to Srinagar, and not to Manali - we quickly made flight bookings from Delhi to Srinagar. Neil and Evi were to reach Delhi @ 0100 HRS on 12th, we were flying out on 0930 HRS. The plan was to make their travel and stay in Srinagar restful as they would be tired. We also wanted them to gradually ascend to counter any AMS fears.

They came in, after a long delay - the radio cab/any other cab was not available from the airport and had to wait a long time. Finally, they reached and we rested. We woke up early morning to head to the airport and grabbed a snack there itself. The flight was on schedule and not problems at all.

No one was there to pick us up there! a couple of calls and make-shift arrangements and we got our man. The Srinagar town was very much dead, there was a hartal and some stone throwing incidents had just taken place. We drove from the airport towards the Dal Lake, we were going to stay in a house-boat which I had arranged for through some contacts.

We reached and boarded the 'ferry' shikara




The view was nice, the sky was cloudy and greeted us to the paradise on earth with a slight chill - our jackets were already out as the temperature was 14 degrees (much below 42 in Delhi). We had ascended 1500 mtrs above sea-level.



The house boat was on the other side of the lake (inside) and the shikara ride took us from inside the dal lake's market area



We reached the HB and the carvings on the boat was exquisite!








We dumped our stuff and then headed out again, this time to the famous Mughal Darbar for lunch! the Gustavas, Rogan Josh, Naans and also the Kababs here were simply to die for! they were truly delicious :).

We made a stop at the Nishant Bagh and witnessed the natural spring at the Chashmashai



After this we headed back to the HB post this and were enjoying a view. Not to waste any time, we did go out for a shortish shikara ride where we were taken to the inner lanes, market, floating sheds and the vegetable gardens



Locals Fishing










Neil graced us with this rocking performance



Time for some photographic exploits - day shots of the Srinagar fort

Close up - Panasonic FZ15 Lecia
Night shot - Cannon 1000D Tamaron





My first night shot - the Srinagar Fort in the evening light



I managed to catch the Arg-Nig match while in the HB, it was fun to watch the match at such and exotic location :D

--

We were already tired, so all were trying to catch any sleep possible. Dinner was served at 2100 and we gouged on local delicacies. Mich was having an upset stomach post her McLoedgangj trip, she was not in a good condition because of this. She managed to hang in there braving the weather and her condition for a good 4 days of this trip



The plan for the next day was to catch and early breakfast and to start for Kargil via Zoji La at 0700. I checked on the bcmtouring and IM websites, Manali route was still out and Zoji La was scary with all the snow melting, what was in store for us? With Mich unwell, how will we be able to do this.

-- TO be Cont. --